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We
were still trying to scrub the Cheap Ho stench off our bodies after rolling
in from a barnburner at the Body Shop when the damned limo arrived.
Whattaya
mean the sun is coming up? We just got started, man!
Shut
up and get in the limo, Shemp.
Yea,
it was going to be a thing of beauty, I could tell already. Somewhere out
on the tarmac of LAX sat a TACA Airbus, waiting to wing us down Havana way
along with the USC baseball team and God knows how many alumni. Knowing the
specter of Tom Ridge would be watching our every move, we held out faint hope
of even boarding, let alone departing. Yet after all the formalities were
taken care of at check-in and we had forced some rancid breakfast burritos
down our throats, courtesy of the fine folks in the Bradley International
Torture Terminal we managed to board the fishy French A-320 Airbus.
For the uniformed, all Airbus seats were designed using the guillotine as
the comfort standard. But what did we care? We were going to Fidels
House! On a side note, legendary USC baseball coach Rod Dedeaux was with our
group of 200-plus loyalist freedom fighters.
Through
the crafty efforts of a former Trojan punter turned international trade specialist,
a series of games were scheduled between the USC squad and the Cuban National
team
or so we were led to believe. With visions of baseball, mojitos,
Cohibas and mamacitas dancing in our heads, we surfed a phat tailwind direct
to Jose Marti International Airport, arriving a mere 5 hours after departure,
under cover of darkness.
Being
Americans, we wouldnt have it any other way.
It didnt take long for the wonders of the Third World to filter into
our skulls. Customs lines were of interminable length and there was little
logic to the process flow. Things only improved as the hodad Cubano
tour guide tried in vain to be disarmingly self-deprecating while attempting
to build group cohesion on the bus ride to the hotel. Sit down,
Shecky! Naturally, check-in was a fiasco, with most rooms not being ready.
Yea, right
more like they wanted to make sure the bugs and phone taps
were working. Fortunately, the have a great deal of experience with crisis
management down there, so we were quickly shuffled off to the reception area.
There, we discovered an unlimited supply of Cuba Libres standing at attention,
like little soldiers of the revolution, awaiting their demise in the hands
of the invading hordes. Eventually, we were situated and, despite the late
hour, agreed to stage our preliminary urban reconnaissance mission on downtown
Havana. We had but one thing in mind
a few drinks and cigars on the
side would be an added bonus.
For
the gentlemen in the audience, let me give you perhaps the best piece of advice
you will EVER receive: Drop what you are doing and go to Cuba. RIGHT NOW!
It makes Thailand seem as expensive as Milan, if you know what I mean and
I think you do. I was in and out of the Havana Café in less than 20
minutes, and it proved to be an adventure I will not soon forget. HOLY COW!!!
This, as it would turn out, was just the tip of the iceberg, and over the
ensuing 6 days, I would go on to enjoy some of the most beautiful (and affordable)
companionship I have ever known or could have dreamed of on the web.
But I digress
its baseball youre interested in, so lets get back
on topic here, shall we?
Over
the next few days, the Trojans would play some games against the Cubans. Unfortunately,
it was not against their best but their second (or third) string. As we would
discover later (on TV, no less), we had arrived in the middle of the Cuban
Leagues season, so it was All-Star break. The first game was held at
night in a small stadium about an hour out into the countryside. The USC contingent
took over the first base side of the stands, outfitted in appropriate battle
fatigues (Hawaiian shirts) and headgear (Che Guevara berets). As we ate fresh-carved
turkey and pork sandwiches, guzzling smuggled beer, commenting on the pathetic
state of dogs in Cuba, avoiding the so-called mens room (where you can
be CERTAIN to find WMDs) and generally doing our best to ingratiate
ourselves, we watched our boys dismantle the hosts by a score of 12-3. We
wrote it off as a cursory warm-up game, which was not far off the mark.
Game
two, the next day, was held at a larger stadium in Havana proper. Once again,
it was a massacre, with the Trojans coming out on top 20-10. USC third base
phenom Joey Metropoulos enjoyed a career road trip, smashing everything he
saw and flawlessly fielding everything he touched. The picture was getting
clearer now, so most of the faithful began wandering off early to sample yet
more 17-year old rum and freshly rolled cigars to say nothing of 17-year
olds themselves. These three elements made up our three critical food groups
during our stay. The earlier concerns about what could and could not
be taken back to the States were starting to wane, and greed began
setting in on the minds of the vulgarians.
By
the midway point of the trip, average cigar consumption had reached 6 or more
per day, while mojito consumption was easily on the order of two-dozen or
more per day. And that was pacing it. Havana Daydreamin
was becoming a reality, especially for the forward deployed strike team, of
which I was a founding member. Many of the faithful began turning to us for
insight, leads, negotiating tactics and phone numbers. Fortunately, it was
a sellers market, so large quantities of Jacksons were changing hands
throughout.
The
final game was held at the premier baseball facility in Cuba, the Estadio
Latinoamericano. Regrettably, no local turnout was in order, so we essentially
had the cavernous stadium to ourselves. Another fiasco in the making, the
game was called in the 7th with USC on top 16-0. Wherever the great Cuban
Baseball Dynamo was, we never caught a glimpse of it anywhere. Its too
bad, because it seems pretty clear the Trojans could have likely taken on
anyone the Cubans could field. But such is the way with Cuba and the avarice
of El Supremo. Trojan baseball coach Mike Gillespie stood up and apologized
to the fans, but expressed his appreciation for all of the support and had
no regrets about taking the trip. Naturally, we couldnt have agreed
more and shoved a mojito into his hand. At that point, we just saddled back
up and took off for the Malecon and whatever further adventures awaited us.
Our
final full day in Havana was spent conducting every possible scam and grift
we had become attuned to during the 5 days prior. In what can only be described
as a noir film classic scenario, our constantly evolving wolf pack took over
a small sidewalk bar / café, just off the Parque Central, near Havanas
gut, late in the afternoon. As the curvaceous skank paraded their
wares along the walkway in front of us, I sat pensively, nursing a non-stop
flow of cold Bucanero beers, sucking down a Montecristo, watching the drama
unfold. Having just visited Hemingways house, I couldnt help but
notice the poetic timing of the storm clouds rolling in from across the Caribbean.
Some members of the crew were working black market cigar deals across the
street in the plaza, while others were negotiating suitable fees for service
contracts with some dusky dolls. The foreign tourists present
all shocked and deeply disappointed to find Norte Americanos present
just stared at us with total fascination and disgust. Naturally, we fed off
their negative energy, until the rains began to fall, the winds began to whip
and all hell broke lose. Not certain of the original catalyst, I returned
from a head call to see the table breaking up and bodies scattering in all
directions. I immediately went into self-preservation mode and beat feet for
the taxi, patiently awaiting our return. In all honesty, it was more like
a Blackhawk extraction from Somalia. Two guys split into the gut with a couple
of gnarly hooks, while the rest of us held our own to the increasing slurs
and catcalls coming from the ever-present Socialista broads who give Alanis
Morissette a good name. Chaos ensued as the rain pelted us and blackened skies
swept over the scene. Fortunately, we all got out without taking any hits
and enjoyed a good laugh along with our smokes all the way down
Embassy row back to our hotel. Yes, we had left two behind, but youve
got to expect a few losses in any big operation. As fate would have it, they
returned under their own power about an hour after we arrived. Once again,
the Ugly American is alive and well, and I am proud to have done my part to
keep an ancient tradition alive!
Unlike the University of Washington baseball team, which had been thrown out
of Cuba four years prior when a player was caught stealing a box of cigars
from a shop (typical Husky moron), we actually departed under more genial
and civilized conditions. Eight long, tedious hours later including
endless ground delays in L.A. we finally re-boarded our limo and disappeared
into the chilly 2 A.M. night of the City of No NFL. We were filthy drunk,
reeked of abusive cigar consumption, our clothes were tattered and our hair
matted, we had open sores and viscous wounds
yet we waltzed through
customs unmolested and had left no one behind. It was as if we had never left
Cuba
is, well
Cuba. A land of dichotomies, mixed metaphors and layered deceit,
it remains a beautiful image in my mind, populated by some lovely people (unlike
their forlorn brethren in Miami) and stuck in a time warp. There are the 50s
era cars, the classic architecture and the images of decades long gone. There
are also cops, security guards and informants everywhere, a noticeable lack
of respectable dining establishments and a general population that is sick
and tired of being bled to death by a government that long ago imploded under
its own weight. Then there is the myth of baseball in Cuba, and maybe it is
just that after all
a myth. Sorry, Duque you may have been the
last
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Team
USC
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